I have a 2003 C240 with the 6 speed manual tranny and it is very difficult to get it into 1st / 2nd. No grinding just doesn't want to go in at a stop. If I go up through all the gears then try 1st again it will go in.70% of the time.but not without some force. Clutch seems fine and all the other gears are also fine. Can't see the linkage very well, looking for bushings, what I could see looked fine.
Also, if the tranny needs to be R&R'd does anyone have a link to a service manual that lays out the procedure? Sounds to me like the clutch is not releasing completely. Since higher gears have less mechanical advantage the transmission synchros can stop the gears so they engage. First thing to check is brake fluid reservoir, it's set to let the clutch cylinder go dry first and protect the brakes. If that's OK, then either the clutch master or slave cylinder is getting weak. On another note, the slop in my shifter is getting annoying - lots of motion in the shift handle while in any gear, and sometimes does not pull all the way into reverse.
I might need a bushing in the shift linkage -- looks like I'd pull the transmission for that. No cables in the clutch system. Driver Genius Pro 2007 Скачать Бесплатно on this page. I agree that bleeding is a good idea and probably the first thing I would do. The clutch bleed port is inside the bell housing and accessible through a rubber cover located under the tranny. Do NOT use DOT 5 fluid, it's bad for the system. Pentosin super DOT 4 seems to be the favorite around here.
Original California ’83 Mercedes 240D, 48,308 actual miles, 4-speed manual transmission, 2-owner California 240D. Thank you for spending the time to review this. Mercedes Tools - any Special Tool for Mercedes Benz Repair from Samstag Sales. Roline Drivers Usb Serial Converter.
Dinesh Objective Physics Pdf Textbook here. If you're bleeding the clutch then might as well do the brakes too, starting with the furthest. So you'd end up doing RR, LR, RF, clutch, and end with LF. I managed to do the rear brake bleeding without removing wheels or jacking up the car.lots of room under there and the ports are accessible. The front end will require jacking up, but you can leave the wheels in situ. There's an easy push buttons for auto-set under the car.
You need to be two to do it. I've not done that yet but I've read a 'how to' somewhere. A calibrated tool seem to be needed. On the stick side, you take off the leather stuff and maybe the rubber. If I understood how to do, fisrt you need to push the button under the car until a clic then push the stick to the right and pull it to stick the tool underneath. Let the stick go engage the tool in good position then compress the stick in left position and ask the second person to free the push button. Finaly take out the tool.